When the Jews first entered the little postage stamp that is Palestine some 3000 years ago they immediately realized, vinously speaking, the land was stacked. They would go on making wine in the Holy Land until the Muslims installed a mandatory 1200 year break, which was ended by the Zionist influence of Baron Edmond James de Rothschild. Yes, the Edmond James de Rothschild of banking fame, heir of Chateaux Lafite-Rothschild, and cousin of Nathaniel, the founder of Chateaux Mouton-Rothschild.

But despite an ancient, pock marked winemaking history and a noble French pedigree, many people don’t drink Kosher wine, much less wine made in Israel. And that’s certainly not anyone’s fault. Unless you’ve been organizing the annual neighborhood Seder, very few people have any need for the mass-produced, sometime syrupy sweet, but almost wholly uninspiring juice that’s been flowing out of the country since it’s wine renaissance in the mid-1800′s. But times, quoth the great poet, they are a-changing.

Today Israel employs about 11,000 acres of it’s sacred soil to growing vines, about a tenth of one percent of it’s total land mass, an infinitesimal figure even for a country that can be traversed in a day’s drive. Those vineyards are mostly planted with the usual suspects—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Though, with such a nascent modern wine industry, there isn’t yet an obvious flagship varietal (Syrah is my favorite, but that’s just bias.)

I know no one believes in Robert Parker anymore, but just a few years ago he awarded 14 wines 90 points and over in his first major tasting of any Israeli vintage. The Israeli wine trade, who apparently doesn’t read wine blogs, took this as resounding affirmation of the massive overhaul their industry has implemented over the last 20 years or so. A lot of people who do read wine blogs, myself included, agree.

I recently had an opportunity to taste some serious Israeli wine with Richard Schaffer, an importer here in Chicago, during Sukkoth, which is the Jewish celebration of the fruit harvest. A fitting time to explore the produce of this Mediterranean country, methinks. Here are a couple gems:

Flam Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay 2009

This is an Italian influenced producer making wine in one of the best regions in Israel, the Judean Hills. This wine comes with classic tart citrus and grassy notes, but the creamy mouthfeel that the Chardonnay brings makes this wine really unique. $19

Tzora Shoresh 2007

Tzora is also making some great wines in the Judean Hills. Shoresh, which means root, is a fitting name for this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It’s bright singing red fruit, smooth tannins, and a touch of cinnamon make this wine a definite crowd pleaser. Give this one a G.D. badge. $39

Tulip Syrah Reserve 2007

This is an interesting producer that is established in Kfar Tikvah, which means Village of Hope. The community is a home to many with disabilities and special needs, some of whom the winery employs. This cold-climate Syrah brings beautiful aromatics with rose petals and raspberry compote in the nose. Deep red fruit on the palate, with a touch of charcoal and spice. $39